PSP LCD Part 2: Selecting a Controller & Schematic

Okay i am a bit perplexed when it comes to this. I was thinking about using a FPGA since i have one on hand but then I realized the FPGA cost about $15 from digikey while i can simply get a controller already made and save coding time on it. The SSD1963 is about $18 on eBay. Of course ebay isnt the best source but $18 is a great price considering that i save a ton of headaches. Also it has feature i think i wouldnt be able to make on my own.

So i think the best idea is to order one of these. I know i will. For the time being ill have to make a eagle part and schematic still. So the posting will continue. Also i plan on getting the boards made at my favorite FAB house…Β DorkbotPDX

Since i only have 1 LCD i might sell the extra boards that come in. But i wont have more SSD1963 ICs… Depends if i make more money . Ill definitley order everything else needed though, like the connectors and boost circuit. So all that will be needed is to Drag Solder the SSD1963 on board… You can hot air it but be sure to protect surrounding parts.

Anyway. Im off to make a Eagle part for this SSD1963 and FPC connectors i chose in part 1. Then i will create a basic schematic and post it as soon as possible.

As per the datasheet of the SSD1963 (LQFP 128) here is a sneak peak of my eagle part. Its untested of course and needs a thorough pin check before i even use it πŸ™‚ but very close so far… I am using Eagle 6. So i can tie all the VDD, VSS , VDDLCD pins etc to the same name without having to draw each pin out.

Next is the FPC Parts…

Here is my 4 Pin FPC :

Here is my 40 Pin FPC:

Now for putting all these together. I will not be making full traces but i will be naming them since ( at least to me ) it seems to make a more readable schematic. Not having to follow lines πŸ™‚ I will be sure to be using nice naming on the lines like PSP_HSYNC etc… so its nice and clear whats what.

Ok here is my first failure… Im using the smallest traces and holes possible from my board house and the board isnt as small as i would like. I still have to make it bigger. All parts are not on yet but this just goes to show you how much time you should take to actually consider part placement.


Remember the above is no good. I dont even have the 1.2v Regulator for the SSD1963 or the 5v Boost for the LCD.Β  This is going to be more of a hassle then first anticipated. But dont worry i will get it done! Also im sure people will want to buy these PCBs when done. I might sell BARE pcb for $10-$15 depends on actual cost i pay and the time i used creating this.Β  Also I have to test it first too. Im not going to sell something untested. I might… but ill always give you a warning. Like if i make a PCB and have no code for it you will know.


Published by atomsoft

Starting a small company. Trying to build it from ground up. Only 2 employees so far. Nothing serious yet but soon!

10 thoughts on “PSP LCD Part 2: Selecting a Controller & Schematic

    1. What do you mean drive it with the STM32F4? Driver the SSD1963? If so then hell yeah! The STM32F4 has 1 MB Flash, 192 KB RAM running @ 168Mhz which is perfect i think.

      I dont want to control it without the SSD1963 since i hate multitasking. Its a huge headache. Dividing time and such.

      1. yes, drive SSD with STM
        i have 176pin STM32F4 and psp lcd, so that would be nice to have starting point πŸ™‚

      1. Thanks ill be sure to try and use it. I usually use crossworks for arm for all my arm needs. But usuing free stuff might help more people.

        Installing it now… Had to register and wait for email with key πŸ™‚ Also downloading the video of it πŸ™‚ Its based on Eclipse which is cool.

  1. i would use 5V input for LCD because it will save you some time/current on 3.3V rail.And you just simply can use voltage regulators to get 1.2/3,3V
    also would be nice to include touchscreen diver for this board,
    Here is LDC driver circuit from my board, maybe you will find it useful
    if all goes well, i will need one pcb πŸ™‚

    1. Thanks cool, It looks like the chinese versions i have seen on the net πŸ™‚ mines is pretty similar so far. Ill be sure to take 5v in and drop down on PCB. πŸ™‚

  2. Maybe because it’s 16b working mode, so they decided don’t use that many color depth?
    maybe that’s why i have so rubbish looking screen :O ( i was thinking that just rubbish screen from china, and i spend lot of time searching amoled to replace it, since is sucks )

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