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SSD1963.. dev…

Just because the actual creation of hardware is on hold doesnt mean development is… Here is the latest REVISION of my SSD1963 breakout… this breaks out EVERYTHING you will ever need… except the 8080 MCU choice… i assume and guess its the most popular or well only used type in these times.

The image below is HUGE.. While when this is done ill post a PCB file or perhaps some gerbers i will not post the actual SCH file since it took me so long to do.. if i can sell 2-4 of these then i will release the file… but i will release the SCH image and stuff like that but no EAGLE files (eagle 6.1.0 is what i used)… So be aware of that.

This PCB passes LAENs PCB service DRC (Design Rule Check)… So so far so good. I need to make the rest of the silk screen then double check stuff but its worth it… this breakout will let you get FULL use of this IC… so if you still want 8 bit, 16 bit or 24bit control… you got it… crystal will be swapable…and has jumpers for different types of oscillator setups…

Also added the VARIABLE output BOOST converter! This board will be a BASE or MOTHERBOARD for other LCD adapters… so you can plug and play to test and stuff. Then you can use my schematic to design your own custom board with LCD carrier and only the pins and setup you need.

NOTE: Passes DRC for : SEEEDSTUDIO, LAEN, ITEADSTUDIO

SSD1963 Delay…

Ok guys… GOOD and BAD news… i like saying the bad first because then the good picks me up…

BAD -> This project will be delayed 2 months…The delay is due to funding
GOOD -> In 2 months ill have enough funding to buy a bunch of the chips and boards and have some made and for sale. Also It gives me time to read and learn more and you can bet the more i know the more you will know.

SSD1963 Thoughts

Here is a non connected look of the SSD1963 breakout so far. Has changeable OSC settings and will breakout almost every pin!

Edit: Changed R2 to be of Variable type for variable Boost!(vr1)

Here is a Routed version. This is all hand routed. No AUTO ROUTE crap!

It will cost me $30.78 to get 3 of these PCBs! Expensive! Thats $10.26 for each PCB no parts or labor included. Imaging the $18 IC that goes on it.. lol that $28 not including shipping. Ill have to source the SSD1963 from china or something… i saw it at a supplier for $10 but i have to buy 10 pieces… so thats $100 for 10 ICs

Then add $30.78 * 3 (3 sets of 3 PCBS) = $192.34 for 9 PCBs and 10 SSD1983 Then i need 9 connectors for each 40 pin and 4 pin. Thats another $10, Misc parts is about $5 then shipping…  So i put it at costing me $240-$250 to make 9-10 Fully populated boards! OMG im not rich! heh so that means if i make 9 Boards … to make my money back i have to sell them for $27.78.. to make profit i have to sell them for more…

So if you see these at my store for $35 you now have a good understanding. Also Linas gave me a link to one:

http://www.newhavendisplay.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=91_372&products_id=2656&fb_source=message

Its from Newhaven Display, its $35… so why buy mines? Well here are just a couple of reasons:

1) Mines is open source… always know what to replace if anything happens.
2) Mines has a variable power supply for powering different LED back light voltages.
3) Mines will be purple with gold plated goodness.
4) Mines has a THROUGH HOLE (0.1″ aka 2.54mm) breakout which means easier to test any LCD and any MCU.
5) Made in the USA.. (Only main SSD IC is from china)
6) Helps support more of my work which in turn helps all.

NOTE: I have to add the transistor for backlight control 🙂

Thoughts of PSP

Ok i was thinking about this PSP LCD project and dont worry its still on. But i though why not make a simple breakout for both the PSP LCD and SSD1963 before i go messing something up or making a final PCB which will cost way more $$$… so …. so far i came up with:

This board is cool since it can be used in 2 ways…

1) To breakout the connector for the PSP LCD and Backlight
2) To breakout my controller board for using other LCD (not psp type)

Im also going to breakout the SSD1963 then after testing the breakouts with different wiring ill create a single solution PCB which the above breakout can still be used on 🙂

Doing this on separate boards allows me to remove some wiring to test whether certain things are needed. Also the SSD Breakout will allow me to test different crystal speeds and see what performance i can achieve. Dont worry ill document the testing process thoroughly and might even create a PDF of this entire process for others to learn from. Also i would need to make some sample code for PIC and ARM for me and of course anyone else who wants it.

Bare with me. Im not rich and testing cost $$$ if you want to help speed up the process DONATE… i accept donations via Paypal.. Jason@atomsofttech.com

Or if you have spare parts that i can use… (i have about 8 FPC 40 pin connectors), i need to order 4pin FPC Connectors for backlight. Also i need to order the actual SSD1963 then some of the special resistors for boost converter. Also i need to order PCBs for the test. Then the final. So I expect to spend about $100 on 1 working board… after that im sure i can re-create the final board for about $20-$30 so i can sell it for $25-$35

The final board will also have a Touch Screen Controller build in… (Resistive Type 4 wire)  Im sure i can make 1 version and just omit some parts like the touch controller for those who dont need it or have parts on hand and want to save money.

I know asking for donations sucks but to be honest my online store barely has any customers and i might even close it down and just sell off my blog or something. Or through someone else like sparkfun or seeedstudio…

Side Note: I wish i hit the lotto and won 10 million lol i would buy about 1-2 million worth of parts and sell them at rediculously low prices just to help out everyone out there who cant afford to get what they need 🙂 just imagine i buy 100 Logic Analyzers @ $150 each and sold them for $75 i am only loosing out on $7,500 which isnt bad since i saved 100 people $75 each… its just a dream i have… heh

PSP LCD Part 2: Cont…

Here is the new PCB layout so far. Its slightly larger but well worth it. Its pretty cool i guess.

New version of the board is being thought of right now. I dont want to limit myself or others to the PSP LCD so im redesigning this. May be a bit larger but it will be able to use most LCDs when done. Also Might add a Touch Screen Controller to it. Im trying to keep the price low but so far after fully making this and populating the PCB its going to be about $20 – $30 each… (Sale Price) Will cost me about $16-$26 to make it so prices are good i think. I might just make a few bucks on each. The goal isnt to make money but to be able to make things and share them and also afford for me to make more 🙂

So Rev 3 of this PCB is coming soon!

PSP LCD Part 2.. Continued

Ok this schematic is just to show the horrors so far. DO NOT USE. The resistor values and some cap values are wrong. Just copied from other projects. I just wanted to post this to let everyone know i am still working on it. Also i might include a 9-10 MHZ Crystal or something. Im still reading about the SSD1963 clocks. Its a headache 🙂 but cool. So Please just examine this and know its a work in progress…

(CLICK FOR HUGE IMAGE)

Here is a picture of the LCD next to the PCB Layout. Just making sure it will be a nice fit with cables heh… Also new schematic…

PSP LCD Part 2: Selecting a Controller & Schematic

Okay i am a bit perplexed when it comes to this. I was thinking about using a FPGA since i have one on hand but then I realized the FPGA cost about $15 from digikey while i can simply get a controller already made and save coding time on it. The SSD1963 is about $18 on eBay. Of course ebay isnt the best source but $18 is a great price considering that i save a ton of headaches. Also it has feature i think i wouldnt be able to make on my own.

So i think the best idea is to order one of these. I know i will. For the time being ill have to make a eagle part and schematic still. So the posting will continue. Also i plan on getting the boards made at my favorite FAB house… DorkbotPDX

Since i only have 1 LCD i might sell the extra boards that come in. But i wont have more SSD1963 ICs… Depends if i make more money . Ill definitley order everything else needed though, like the connectors and boost circuit. So all that will be needed is to Drag Solder the SSD1963 on board… You can hot air it but be sure to protect surrounding parts.

Anyway. Im off to make a Eagle part for this SSD1963 and FPC connectors i chose in part 1. Then i will create a basic schematic and post it as soon as possible.

As per the datasheet of the SSD1963 (LQFP 128) here is a sneak peak of my eagle part. Its untested of course and needs a thorough pin check before i even use it 🙂 but very close so far… I am using Eagle 6. So i can tie all the VDD, VSS , VDDLCD pins etc to the same name without having to draw each pin out.

Next is the FPC Parts…

Here is my 4 Pin FPC :


Here is my 40 Pin FPC:

Now for putting all these together. I will not be making full traces but i will be naming them since ( at least to me ) it seems to make a more readable schematic. Not having to follow lines 🙂 I will be sure to be using nice naming on the lines like PSP_HSYNC etc… so its nice and clear whats what.

Ok here is my first failure… Im using the smallest traces and holes possible from my board house and the board isnt as small as i would like. I still have to make it bigger. All parts are not on yet but this just goes to show you how much time you should take to actually consider part placement.

 

Remember the above is no good. I dont even have the 1.2v Regulator for the SSD1963 or the 5v Boost for the LCD.  This is going to be more of a hassle then first anticipated. But dont worry i will get it done! Also im sure people will want to buy these PCBs when done. I might sell BARE pcb for $10-$15 depends on actual cost i pay and the time i used creating this.  Also I have to test it first too. Im not going to sell something untested. I might… but ill always give you a warning. Like if i make a PCB and have no code for it you will know.

… NOTE: THIS POST IS NOT COMPLETE YET…