Ive been playing with an 8×8 LED Matrix for a couple days and found it annoying to test designs and animations. So i created a nice C# application and Arduino Code to simplify this all. Coming soon! The application isnt 100% done but its fun to see it come to life.
This is a super simple program. You can shift and rotate led patterns. Also create multiple versions making animations simple. You can play the animation live or via the app only. You can name the entire code and each individual item. You can also Save, Open and Import designs to build bigger animations or fonts.
DipDuino is a Arduino in 0.3in DIP form. It runs the Atmega328P. Uses an onboard CP2104 to program itself and comes pre-programmed with Arduino Bootloader. Will act as a Arduino Pro or Pro Mini. Available in my Tindie Store.
The DipDuino is a FULL ARDUINO (Minus the A6 & A7 pins). Comes in 5v and 3.3v versions. There is a RGB LED onboard to show the status of Power and UART Transmissions. Green for Power and RED/Blue for Rx/Tx.
Comes with a Reset button on board as well and a LDO for 3.3v Versions. For 5v Versions power is taken straight from USB. Please be safe and careful not to short it.
Be aware its TINY!
Width is 0.37in [9.3mm] & 0.3in [7.62mm] pin width Length is 1.82in [46.26mm]
Hey everyone. Got a new version of my BreadBoard Buddy out in the wild. I have only 1 left as they sold out quick. I’ll be making an order for new pcbs today. I’ll post a link also where to order later today. 1 lucky person is getting 2. They placed an order on tindie from me and I decided to give them the upgraded pcbs.
Here is info for it:
The newer version included 2 user LEDs and a universal layout for breadboards.
VIN Pin: This pin connects to the regulatorONLY. It will NOT charge your battery. It will NOT touch USB Votlage. MAX VOLTAGE IS 6V on this pin.
LEDs: L1 and L2 are both connected to ground with a 2K resistor. Simply supply a high voltage of about 2v-5v to turn them on.
User Button: The Button can be Pulled High to 3.3v or 5V Using the solder jumper on bottom.
Lipo Charging/Power: The battery charger can be set to either 100mA or 500mA charging current via a solder jumper on the bottom. When a battery is plugged in it will power the regulator on board. I used a BAT54C to share power with USB and VBAT so nothing blows up.
VCC Rails: There are 2 rails. Left side and Right. Each rail can supply 3.3v or 5v to each side without affecting the other side. This is nice when you are working on a 5v / 3.3v system mixed.
LEDs are also using a higher resistor as they can be bright as heck. It’s nice to be able to see a LED on without blinding yourself. 🙂
Once I get this running, at least some basic actions… I’ll post it on a new GitHub and link here on site. Working mainly on actual form. I love the way i can make it tiny and free up window space or make it a full screen monster… take a look..
I’m getting older and feel if I had certain programs well kept or maintained it would be easier for me to get jobs done.
To help maintain new projects I’m making an entirely new GitHub account. This will house projects I plan to keep better track of.
One of the new projects is a Serial terminal. There are so many serial terminals out there. I use realTerm mostly but it’s also kind of annoying. The feature are cool but switching tabs for something that should be always available is a pain.
I’ve built a few terminals of my own in the past but only for quick use nothing serious. In fact most of my project not all but the majority are quick 1 time use applications.
I’m learning C# more and more with Async stuff I think it would be a great way to build some new skills while developing a useful app.
This terminal will be open source. Commented as well as I can comment it and I’ll do my best to track bugs and take feedback and requestion on GitHub. I will also see it compiled as a binary on my website. Zipped and scanned for viruses of course.
Yes I know I’ve done this in the past with a 7in capacitive LCD.. but it’s fun. Also this is using an esp32 so wifi enabled.
Basic operations.. esp32 configures LCD.. SD card then wifi. Loads images into it’s ram for remote keys and toggle switches.
The TV or TVs yes it can control 2 or more. Are controlled via Rokus Extended control stuff. Basically you send post signals to your TV and can control it that way. You can control as many Roku TVs as it allows on your network. The current issue is this is only local. So you have to be on same network as TV which isn’t an issue to be honest.
I use a 32 inch Roku TVs as my monitor. It’s great so far but to have to find the remote if I misplace it can be a hassle. So I plan to build this into my computer as a front panel. So I can simple press what ever I want to do. No aiming of remotes.. no finding.. just simple control.